Highland Fling: Eoghan visits Inverness for the Etape Loch Ness

Thousands of cyclists roll into Inverness each year to take on Etape Loch Ness – a spectacular 66-mile loop around the world-famous Loch that feels big, without being intimidating. It’s the kind of ride you build up to after a handful of club spins: long enough to feel like a proper day out, but forgiving enough that any reasonably fit cyclist can complete it, even if training hasn’t gone to plan.

The route itself is mostly flat, with one monster climb (a nod to the Loch’s most famous resident) and a few gentle lumps later on. Crucially, it’s not technically difficult – wide roads, good visibility, and plenty of space to find your rhythm make it an ideal introduction to organised events.

Add in closed roads, clear signage, and volunteers exactly where you need them, and you’ve got a ride that removes the usual stress and lets you focus on turning the pedals.

Well organised, well supported, and welcoming from the first mile, Etape Loch Ness strikes that rare balance: a big event atmosphere without the sense you’re out of your depth.

Why Choose Inverness and the Etape Loch Ness?

You might be thinking, “Inverness? That’s a trek!” And certainly, when I lived in Sussex in the south of England, the journey north for an event like this would have seemed an undertaking.

But the perks of the Etape Loch Ness make the journey well worth it. Here’s why this Highland challenge should be on your radar.

The City

Inverness, the host city for Etape Loch Ness, is a gem. Clean, walkable, and packed with excellent restaurants, the “capital of the Highlands” consistently ranks high for quality of life, and you’ll likely find that a couple of days exploring its beautiful streets isn’t nearly enough.

I’ve cycled through Inverness before – once heading south during a LEJOG, and once north during a jaunt around Scotland. My time there was enough to leave me with a good feeling about the city, but never enough time to dig in a little deeper and explore more. Etape Loch Ness gave me that opportunity.

Registration for the Etape is on Saturday, with the ride on Sunday, meaning there are a few hours to roam, discover, and find that great place for dinner.

Closed Roads

Normally, the narrow roads around the Loch are a chaotic squeeze of coaches and cars. The Etape offers a rare, glorious opportunity to cycle the entire loop in total safety, completely free from traffic.

London Classics & Inclusivity

New for 2026, participants can substitute the much-missed RideLondon for the Etape Loch Ness to complete their London Classics. It’s a wonderfully inclusive event; you’ll see everyone from serious club racers to casual riders on mountain bikes, tandems, and even the occasional single-speed.

The Ride Experience

Everyone’s morning started early. And chilly. Several thousand cyclists gathered in Inverness’ Bught Park – just outside the city centre. Waves of cyclists were released; I was in the second of four. Gorgeous, chunky stone buildings whizzed by as the route moved south from the city towards the Loch. The weather held out in our favour. Sunny early on, then cloudy later, but dry all day. 

From Bught Park until the end, 66 miles later, there was not a car on the road – just cyclists, from e-bikers to tandem riders, flat bars, drop bars, and all in between.

Lone cyclists and groups jostled over the full width of the road, finding their cadence for the day. Volunteers were on hand marking dangerous corners, narrowing roads, or obstacles that could endanger riders.

The parcours is quite a route – full of history, myth, and beautiful nature. The first feedstop was in the car park leading to Urquhart Castle, with the ruined castle below us, right on the banks of the Loch. Once one of the largest castles in Scotland, Urquhart changed hands numerous times between the Scots and English during the wars of independence. This game of “pass the castle” was only brought to an end during the Jacobite Risings, when government troops blew it up when they left.

Thankfully the castle – or its remains – enjoys a more peaceful time of it these days; but, mindful of its fate, I flitted between the wheels of fellow riders, conserving energy to avoid any chance of blowing up myself.

Looking from the north side of the Loch across the water, the hills dramatically climb upwards. A coffee was in order, I decided.

I had looked at the route on Google Maps a couple of days before the ride and saw that Fort Augustus – more or less the halfway point – has a few cafes. As I was riding, I saw signs indicating that the feedstop was approaching and that Fort Augustus was 6 miles further. I skipped the feed stop, going directly to Fort Augustus, the cafe with freshly made cappuccino and no lines, seats, and a toilet that wasn’t a Portaloo. 

Coming back to the parcours after my quick coffee stop, there was maybe a mile before crossing the tracker marking the start of the day’s Hors Catégorie climb. Starting at the southernmost tip of Loch Ness, just as the course turns north for Inverness and home, the Glendoe climb – also known as “Suey” – stretches to around 7.5km, with gradients reaching 12%.

All around, cyclists who to this point had been treated to a virtually pan-flat parcours, rolled backwards, broke, and walked, while others puffed onwards, hoping for the end.

Brutally, the climb to the top didn’t come in one stretch. Instead, there were stretches of flat or descending roads, convincing riders that the worst was over, only for the gradient to rise again.

When finally the summit was reached, there was a lone bagpiper atop the highest point playing for all those engaged in battle. Dozens of cyclists stood on the side of the road at the top, catching their breath and enjoying the views. I didn’t join them in the standing around part – only the marvelling at the scenery, which included a downhill road!

Most of the road back to Inverness was a narrow single-track road cutting through forestry. Occasionally, there would be glimpses of the Loch through the trees. Never was there a glimpse of the monster, presumably Nessie opting to keep a low profile in the presence of bagpipes.

Nearing Inverness, the crowds built on the roadside. There was a vocal contingent of spectators continually shouting and cheering cyclists for the last few miles, and it was so encouraging to see that level of local support – by no means a given for a closed road event. But Etape Loch Ness has always aimed to give as good as it gets; the event has raised hundreds of thousands of pounds for charity over the past 12 years, in addition to providing a welcome boost to the local economy for a weekend each April, and long may it continue.

The Etape finished at Inverness’ Eden Court with such a great atmosphere. Cruising under the finisher’s arch surrounded by cherry trees in pink blossom, we were greeted by music pumping, people everywhere, and food trucks abounded. After just short of four and a half hours’ riding – my longest spin of the year – the welcome was enough to bring anyone back from the brink.

High life in the Highlands

If you’ve ridden a few local sportives and are looking to step up in terms of length and size of ride, Etape Loch Ness is for you. It’s not too long, everyone is welcome and made to feel welcome, it’s relatively flat, not technical (if you don’t know what that means, it’s why this ride is suitable), and the absence of traffic means there’s a lot of road to move across for most of the route.

The course is well signposted with volunteers at key points to highlight potential hazards, the catering is epic – special shout out for the macaroni pies and sausage rolls – and it all adds up to a really fantastic day out on the bike.

Plus, it’s an excuse to visit Inverness: a great city in a part of the world that is famous, just not on most people’s radars – especially as a destination for a weekend of cycling.

Etape Loch Ness returns on 25 April 2027. Find out more and register interest at www.etapelochness.com.

How I did it

Travel

Inverness is easily accessible by rail or air, with direct flights from London (Gatwick, Heathrow, Luton), Bristol, Manchester, and Amsterdam.

I flew from Bristol. Off the plane and into the city is pain-free. I travelled by taxi, but there is a bus shuttle at the departures/arrival doors, and a train into the city with a station just shy of a mile from the terminal.

Bike hire

To skip the “bike box stress,” I recommend hiring a bicycle locally. Cycle Hire Scotland partnered with the event in 2026 to provide over 100 brand-new Scott bikes to riders from all over the world. Their team handles the fitting right at registration, ensuring you have a safe, comfortable, and hassle-free ride.

I can tell you, hiring direct from Cycle Hire Scotland was far less stressful than bringing a bike – from previous experience of flying with bikes and observing those around me in Inverness who flew with their bike. I presented myself at the easily visible kiosk, identified that I was there to be fitted for my bike rental, and was guided through the fitting process. Once fitted, I was allowed a quick spin before handing the bike back to the mechanic, who fixed my race number and stored it overnight (removing any concern about where to store it safely).

I don’t like road cleats – there’s no grip, and they’re awkward, resulting in being the last in line at the cafe due to uneasy waddling. I ride with mountain bike shoes, which are far easier on and off the bike. Cycle Hire Scotland didn’t hesitate with my unusual request of MTB pedals – they had me sorted faster than you can say, “I’ll have a cappuccino and whatever that delicious looking cake is”. The morning of the ride, I went back to the same kiosk – they were there from 4:00 – and collected the bike in a matter of minutes. Returning the bike was as easy and quick.

Accommodation

I stayed in a hotel just around the corner from Etape’s hub, at Ardross Glencairn. Within 5 minutes of walking out the hotel door, I was at the registration hub at Eden Court, scratching my head, wondering which coffee truck to give money to this time. Highly recommended if you’re looking for a convenient base for event weekend, just be sure to book early.

Strava link

Thanks

A big thank you to Laura and Matt at Keep Comms for organising my trip, plus Claire at Etape Loch Ness and John at Cycle Hire Scotland for helping make the event a superbly enjoyable and hassle-free experience from start to finish.