Book Review: Greenways of Ireland

Greenways of Ireland: 25 Traffic-Free Walking and Cycling Routes is the definitive guide to cycling and walking Ireland’s growing network of greenways.

Published by Three Rock Books (whose earlier book, Gravel Cycling in Ireland, we’d also highly recommend), Greenways of Ireland is a meticulously researched handbook for anyone keen on exploring Ireland by foot or bike. Packed with information, photos, maps and tips, it’s an ideal companion if you’re set on discovering the network of new greenways that are springing up from Ireland’s network of largely abandoned canals and railways.

The book features 25 greenways covering a total of 750km across the island of Ireland, separated into short (less than 20km) and long (20-130km) routes. The book is clearly organised with some background and history of the greenways at the front, before ging on to describe each greenway in more detail. Maps and illustrations help the reader to find a greenway near them, and there’s plenty of useful information on what to expect when they get there.

As well as being a practical guide to some great days out – you’ll find information and photos on notable viewpoints, shops and cafes along the way, for example – the book also offers a fascinating insight into the history of the greenways and their emergence from the disused railway lines and canal towpaths of the 18th and 19th century. When canals and rail were overtaken by road transport, these once vital channels were left to stagnate; it’s only in recent years, largely thanks to the tireless campaigning of individuals and community groups, that this neglected infrastructure is gradually being restored into a public amenity.

This book tells the story, with liberal use of archive and current photography to chart the rise, fall and rebirth of these arteries which can be found scattered across the country. The knowledge, expertise and passion of the two authors shines through; Richard Manton has a PhD in greenway design and is currently Director of Sustainability at the University of Galway, while David Flanagan is both author and publisher at Three Rock Books with a growing list of guides and maps to exploring Ireland. Leafing through the book, I found myself torn between sadness at the loss of these rail and waterways, and excitement at their gradual rebirth as cycle and footpaths.

I live near two of the featured greenways: one running north from Newry along the canal to Lough Neagh, and another only recently completed section running south from Newry to Carlingford in County Louth. I cycle them regularly, alongside a growing number of walkers, runners and cyclists, enjoying the refuge they provide from motorised traffic; heron can be seen stalking the water’s edge; you can race the early-morning scullers from Newry Rowing Club as they glide alongside the path on a Sunday morning, while new cafes like An Táin in Omeath have sprung up to serve the greenway.

Many active cyclists and walkers may, like myself, be aware of the greenways on their own doorstep, but this book reveals the full array across Ireland. And many of them look spectacular. The Waterford greenway, with its old railway tunnel and viaducts, is just one example. A hugely expensive feat of engineering in its time, it’s unthinkable that such a monumental piece of infrastructure would ever be constructed today for the sole purpose of a pleasant cycle or walk between two rural towns – and yet, by repurposing old railways and towpaths, that’s exactly what we now have. The book has inspired me to search out and ride more of the network; some are further afield, but look to be well worth building a weekend visit around.

The process of restoring the old rail and canal network is by no means complete; many greenways are still under construction or remain in the planning stage. And, despite the obvious benefits of greenways – for health, recreation and business – they are not without opposition. Around Carlingford, where a new section of greenway is proposed that would see it extend to Dundalk Bay, a campaign to stop the greenway is underway; signs and banners dotted around the proposed route suggest some locals remain to be persuaded.

And so this book serves as something of a snapshot of the current state of play. It’s no less valuable for that, and if it encourages more people to discover the greenways on their doorstep and join the campaign to open up and rejuvenate the network of paths that lies hidden under brambles, I’m sure the authors would be delighted.

For all the stunning photos in the book, maybe my favourite page is the map on p16 showing the dotted lines of proposed or possible future greenways. Criss-crossing the country from top to bottom, it’s a tantalising and exciting prospect.

Here’s hoping a revised, greatly expanded edition of this book is needed before long. In the meantime, you won’t find a better guide to exploring Ireland’s transport heritage by foot or bike.

Greenways of Ireland: 25 Traffic-Free Walking and Cycling Routes – €25 from threerockbooks.com