"The weather outside is frightful, but the fire (central heating) is so delightful" etc, etc, etc.
I'm sure you recognise the song, but it was the tune that came to mind as Chris, my other half, and I were bemoaning the horizontal rain and the wind that was lashing across our garden plants, as it had been for days on end when we both commented that we needed some winter sun.
As if to prove that our IT devices are listening to us, I received a newsletter from Love Velo highlighting cycling holidays that could be booked for such a winter escape.
My initial thoughts were the Canary Islands, because I reckoned that the further south you travelled the better chance you would have of warmer weather.
With nothing to lose I visited the website and started a bit of a chat with someone called Tom via their live chat link. After giving a description of what we were looking for - cycling for me (but nothing too mountainous), with a decent pool to chill out by for Chris - we concluded that Gran Canaria and Tenerife may tick all the boxes. So, with food for thought I thanked Tom and said I would get back to them if we wanted to go ahead with a booking.
After a couple of days I received a phone call from Georgia at Love Velo, asking if we'd given any further thought to a break, which we had, and by the end of that day a booking was made for a cycling trip to Gran Canaria between February 23rd and 28th.
We would be staying at the 4* Suite Hotel Jardin Dorado in Maspalomas. The £970 price included bike hire, room and breakfast for the two of us. Shortly after that we'd got our flights booked with British Airways and we were ready to go: just a few weeks to wait, and cope with the ongoing atrocious weather.
The Love Velo booking confirmation outlined the package that had been booked with details of our transfer to and from the airport, the location of Free Motion, the bike hire specialists in Playa del Ingles, and the cycling trips that had been booked for me.
There were three guided cycling trips in total, with the itinerary as follows: Day 1, Fataga Village; Day 2, Tauro Pass Soria; Day, 3 rest day and Day 4, Monte Leon - Cercado de Espino through the Ayagaures Valley. None of which meant anything to me at this time, of course, but it was something to look forward to.
Eventually the day arrived and our flight from Gatwick was on time, no issues, and four hours later we were in the sunshine in Gran Canaria.
Following the instructions supplied by Love Velo we were soon aboard the transfer bus and on our way to our hotel in between Playa del Inglés and Maspalomas.
The scenery en route was quite desolate with lots of black rocks and land, probably due to the volcanic make-up of the island, with lots, and I mean lots, of wind farms and solar panels making the most of the climate.
The Suite Hotel Jardin Dorado backs onto a golf course, on the other side of which lie the famous sand dune nature reserve of Maspalomas. It's located about 3km from the main seafront strip of Playa del Inglés.
We were greeted by a very pleasant setting with each "room" being a semi-detached chalet; all 348 chalets were arranged in rows surrounding a central swimming pool and restaurant area. Check-in in was straightforward and in no time at all we were ready for unpacking our bags. Each chalet had a bedroom, sitting room with a small fridge and a bathroom, which is all you need really.
A fateful walk
It was at this point where, unfortunately, I committed my first error of judgment, which was to influence the rest of the trip.
I decided that we still had time to find the bike hire place, Free Motion, and get the bike sorted ready for the following morning; after all, we were told it was only a twenty-minute walk away, so off we went.
After 35 minutes of walking, we still hadn't found Free Motion and it was beginning to get dusky and started cooling down, so we turned back, for another 35-minute walk, to the hotel. To compound matters we'd decided it was too late for us to be having a full meal and trying to sleep, so we didn't have an evening meal.
Sleeping was easy but due to the fact that all we'd eaten the previous day was breakfast at the airport, a sandwich on the plane, spent all day travelling and a couple of evening hikes we were both knackered: so much so that I decided I wasn't fit to be riding an unknown route that included almost 1000 metres of climbing.
I was gutted. I know it was totally self-inflicted, and I should have known better, but sacking off the planned ride seemed the correct thing to do, discretion being the better part of valour etc.
I emailed Free Motion first thing, out of courtesy really, to let them know I wouldn't be riding that morning, and I would be making my way down later to pick up the bike. I felt sure the ride wouldn't be hanging around for Bob to pitch up, but it seemed like the right thing to do.
Straight after breakfast we set off again to find Free Motion and this time we decided to use the hotel's free shuttle service into town. These run three times per day, starting at 10:15 and the bus dropped us off somewhere in the middle of town.
We eventually found Free Motion and got the bike sorted and sized up, a Merida Scultura 6000 Di2, complete with spare tube and selection of Allen keys in a small saddle bag with a mini pump attached to one of the bottle cages.
With the shuttle bus not returning to the hotel until 17:15 we decided to walk back and time how long it took; 45 minutes was the answer, but at least I was sorted for the next day's ride.
By the time we returned to our hotel Free Motion had replied to my email making me aware that they'd transferred my first day ride to my rest day, so nothing would be missed.
So, a bit of an enforced chill out with plenty to look forward to.
Day 2: The first ride
The following morning I took a taxi to Free Motion and arrived in plenty of time for the ride to Tauro Pass Soria. All rides are categorised for difficulty levels, I think, and this ride was classed as a "cappuccino ride".
For this ride our bikes were loaded onto a trailer and towed behind our minibus, and we were driven out to the town of Mogán, where the ride was to commence.
After a briefing from our guide, Bart, we were ready for the off, five of us plus Bart.
Bart is a Belgian ex amateur racing cyclist and once he gave up the racing he moved over to Gran Canaria to be a tour guide. He's been happily doing it now for 15 years, so he'll certainly know his way around.
At all times Bart recognised that some riders may want to ride faster than others, which he understood, so at various points along our route he would mention where the next checkpoint would be, e.g. "wait at the third roundabout", which gave everyone their choice of speed/effort.
As soon as we started pedalling away, I was aware of a clack-clack noise coming from my bike, the sort that you hate to hear when you're out on a ride. I made sure I could go through the gears ok and decided I would let Bart know as soon as we got to the village of Aguimes for our coffee and cake stop.
Unfortunately, I didn't have to wait that long, because as we were making our way out of Mogán we passed some workers in the middle of the road, who seemed to be working around a drain cover. What we didn't see was the domestic type of cable that they'd laid across the road to power their tools, but my front wheel did and, in a split second, I went crashing down like the proverbial sack of spuds.
My knee took the brunt of the fall, for me, but I'd gone down on the drive side and the rear derailleur took a direct hit. Once me and the bike were upright, we moved onto the pavement where Bart tried his best to get the derailleur functioning properly but it wasn't happening. The only gears I could use were the two or three smallest cogs on the cassette, but I could still use the front mech so at least I had a few gears to choose from.
Before we set off again Bart gave Free Motion a call, explained the situation, gave them my details and asked them to bring a new bike out to meet us at Aguimes, what a relief. At this point I was so grateful that I was not using my own bike and out on a guided ride because as a solo rider I reckon I would have been stuffed.
So off we went towards the café stop, about 7km, but it was quite a hilly ride, especially with limited gearing. I was climbing out of the saddle, Alberto Contador style, but probably not as balletic. I had a little chuckle to myself that I was concerned about my climbing abilities and here I was making a fairly good job of it with limited gearing, I think.
By the time we got to Aguimes the front mech had also decided to pack in, thankfully in the small ring, limiting my choices even more. To reach the café stop we had to negotiate a narrow, very steep, roadway through the village and I was having to push for all I was worth and not sure whether I would make it or not. I felt like another fall was imminent, but I got there ok. Phew!
Aguimes was preparing for a carnival and so the streets were full of people helping with the prep, while others sat watching the action from various different café vantage points.
By the time I'd finished my coffee and ham roll and topped up my water bottles my new bike - a Cannondale Synapse - had been delivered and we could get on our way again.
Both the Merida and now the Cannondale had Di2 electronic gearing which I'd never used before, but I very quickly got accustomed to it and especially the little squeaky mouse sound that the front mech made whenever the change between the rings was made.
Bart asked how it felt now that I had gears, and I laughingly said I could now climb like a pro - if only.
The ascents were quite steep but seemed easier now I was equipped with a full set of working gears. I'm not sure I would have managed these later climbs without the bike change. The descents were amazing: exhilarating and cooling.
Once out of the towns the roads were relatively quiet, open and uncrowded allowing plenty of opportunity to plan your line on the various hairpins.
Before too long we were back on the main road and heading back to Playa del Inglés and the end of today's ride. Despite being on the main roads, the drivers were very accommodating, always allowing plenty of room when passing and being very patient when they had to wait to get through.
Once back at Free Motion, after a ride of 34.23 miles at an average speed of 14.6 mph, 2,260ft elevation gain, all in 2:20:30, I collected my rucksack from the rented locker and cycled back up to the hotel ready for a relaxing plunge in the pool. Happy days!
Chris had managed to save a sun bed for me and once I'd finished buzzing about the trip, and all it entailed, I decided it was time for a swim. Chris did warn me that the pool wasn't heated, but I needed to cool down. She was not wrong, it was Baltic, not quite an ice plunge pool but probably as close as I have ever been and would like to be. But after recovering from the temperature shock a bit of swimming helped my body to adjust, although I didn't stay in long, and neither did anyone else throughout the day, apparently.
All that was left to do was grab a quick shower, get changed and grab a meal in the hotel restaurant.
Initially we'd only booked for bed and breakfast but after our first night's walk into Playa del Inglés we opted to upgrade to half board so that we didn't have to go through the drudge of walking to and from town each evening.
We were very glad we did: the food in the hotel restaurant was plentiful, fresh with lots to choose from and, should you be so inclined, you can make as many trips to the buffet as you wished - nobody was counting, at least I hope not.
What a great day!
Day 3: Pool and chill
The following morning, I wasn't feeling great. My legs felt like lead, and I was concerned that I was going down with some sort of lurgy or I was paying for the extra effort I had to put in at the start of the previous day's ride.
Once again, I was gutted at having to make the decision not to ride, possibly that discretion thing again. I knew I was missing out on part of my deal, but I really wanted to make sure I was ok for the 'big' ride on my last day so, reluctantly opted for a pool day, which really isn't my cup of tea.
That said I'd got a copy of Carlton Kirby's 'The Magic Spanner' book and managed to read it all laid by the pool. It's quite a funny book and if you haven't had the chance to read it yet it's worth getting hold of a copy.
Day 4: Ayagaures Valley
Thankfully the next morning, final riding day, I woke up feeling full of beans again and raring to go.
Because I had the bike with me at the hotel it was a simple case of, breakfast, kit on and off you go to meet up with the other riders for our ride to Monte Leon - Cercado de Espino.
This ride was described as a hobby level ride: the description we were given told us that we were riding up the Ayagaures Valley where we'll climb to almost 500 metres to admire the incredible views over the valley, before descending back to Maspalomas and heading back along the coast to our start point at Free Motion.
Once again Bart was our guide and the group was made up of myself, an elderly German couple, a single German guy, a young couple from Scotland and John, an Irish guy who'd been on my previous ride. Whilst we were waiting for the group to get sorted, I was chatting with John and he was telling me that he's been coming over for a two-week cycling break every year for the last eleven years. He rides most of the days he's there, and I can see why.
Once we were all ready and Bart had given his brief, we were off, climbing out of Playa del Inglés and out towards the Ayagaures valley.
On the outskirts of town we rode past a golf driving range. Bart pointed out the field full of golf balls and told us that if we wanted to come and live in Gran Canaria there was a job there collecting the golf balls if anyone is tempted.
Heading out onto the less busy roads a couple of the guys continued a little quicker than the rest of us and when reaching the high point of a climb it was clear to see what was coming next. The climbs in the distance seemed like pencil lines along the side of the hill and the little colourful dots that were moving up the climb were fellow riders, giving the impression that the next ascent was going to be a steep one.
After sweeping round a few descending bends and arriving at the base of the climb it wasn't as steep as expected, but still requiring a fair bit of effort to get up there.
After a few climbs we all assembled at a roundabout where Bart had asked us to regroup and waited for the young Scottish couple that were some way behind. When they eventually got to us, they said that they'd underestimated the level of the ride and, so as not to hold us back, they suggested we all carry on and they would make their own way back.
Bart explained that we were just about to enter the valley road which had kilometre markers along the route. As our café stop, Casa Miguel, was 500 metres past the 11km marker he suggested they make their way there and he'd incorporate a detour into our ride so that we might meet up together at the café. The couple suggested they might not make it that far but told Bart not to worry, and if they were not there just consider that they'd gone back.
Bart further explained that there was lots of construction work being carried out along our route, a new salination plant being built, so expect road works, traffic lights and heavy HGV wagons along the route.
Our group, now reduced to six riders, set off onto the valley road.
The valley road was amazing and looked very similar to the Grand Canyon. The sides of the valley rose steeply either side of the road and were covered in rich green vegetation and big spider-like cactus plants. The height of each of the cliff sides was gargantuan and some of the rock structures an amazing picture in themselves.
The road we were on was a bit gnarly in places, perhaps due to the HGVs that were trundling up and down to the different work sites, and quite twisty all along the route.
This is clearly a popular route for cyclists and every few hundred yards or so there were solo or groups of cyclists enjoying their ride and waving and saying 'hola' to each other as they approached or overtook each other.
At one point our small group was overtaken by a sizeable bunch, probably a dozen riders, from an Edinburgh cycling club who were going along at a fair pace.
Before too long the Edinburgh group were being followed by a large tanker; the leaders in our group were behind that, followed by a tipper truck and, directly behind me was another tipper truck, plus other traffic.
The HGV drivers showed no signs of concern and just bided their time until the road widened and straightened enough for them to get past. As the truck behind me moved out I gave him a wave and a thumbs up, as a bit of a 'cheers mate', and he replied by a gentle toot on his hooter and carried on his merry way, as did we.
As we approached the 10km marker I knew that we were not too far from the café stop. Shortly after that we took a right turn off the main road and rode straight into another village with an incredibly leg-pumping steep hill, which made me wonder: why are café stops always placed at the top of steep village hills?
We went straight through the village and back onto the main road and past the 13km marker, at which point I remembered the mention of the little detour we were going to make, and straight into another challenging climb.
As the group got to the first hairpin on the climb they'd pulled over onto the gap at the side of the road whilst I caught up; thankfully I wasn't too far behind them.
After a short rest Bart mentioned that we would now make our way back down the hill to the café stop before heading back home. At this point the elderly German couple said that they were going to carry on up the climb - it looked very steep to me - and would make their own way back. So now our group was down to four heading for the café stop.
Casa Miguel looked a bit like a ramshackle shed with an old guy running things. With an order of coffee, a bottle of water and a slice of cake the four of us sat in the sun chatting and relaxing. The Scottish couple had made their way to the café but did not seem interested in joining us for a chat, or the return part of the ride.
Just as we were about to get ourselves together the single German guy said that he wanted to take on the challenge of the hill we'd just come down from and would therefore carry on up there before returning to the Free Motion base; so now there were just three of us, Bart, myself and John.
It quickly became clear that we were facing a bit of a hefty headwind out of the valley, so Bart suggested that we form a train and take turns on the front, changing over at the km markers, and making things a bit more interesting.
Bart took the first stint, and I was happy that I could stay with the pace. After a few km and just as I was about to take another turn on the front, a guy in a Spanish national jersey jumped onto the front of the group and took my turn, ho hum! We quickly adjusted and in no time at all we were at the roundabout at the end of the valley and ready to climb out and back to Playa del Inglés.
John quickly made his way ahead and Bart stayed with me long enough to indicate, over to our left about 70km away, a view of the neighbouring island of Tenerife with the snowcapped Mount Teide. Very impressive!
Bart rode ahead to catch up with John before the three of us convened at the next meeting up point, which turned out to be a great vantage point looking over the modern area of Maspalomas. Because neither John nor I had been there Bart took us on a detour to ride through the town and to the lighthouse situated there, at the most southern point of Gran Canaria.
Ride stats: Distance 38.29 miles, average speed 15.2mph, elevation gain 2,087ft, all in 2:30:48.
It was just a short ride back to the Free Motion base and time to hand back the bike, which was checked over and the rented locker key returned.
It just remained for me to get back to the hotel and the end of the trip - although not quite, as we took a stroll down to Maspalomas for a saunter around the town.
The following morning, we had a full breakfast and, as planned, our shared transfer to the airport for the trip home.
Gran Canaria: the conclusion
Love Velo and Georgia were great from start to finish. Everything was clearly produced in my final booking confirmation document and ran smoothly and to plan.
As for the ride itinerary, I'm not sure if it was Georgia or Free Motion that set this up but, had I not messed it up, the first two rides followed by a rest day made perfect sense. I would look at booking through Love Velo again and Chris has already suggested that she'd be happy to go again.
The hotel, Suite Jardin Dorado, was a great hotel. However, I'm not sure I would list it as a four-star hotel, maybe a three. The rooms were comfortable but a bit tired and could do with a bit of a revamp.
That said the setting was superb, it was quiet, and the food could not be faulted. In a review that Chris found, prior to our trip, it mentioned that the towels were a little thin, and they were, very thin.
Free Motion? The staff were marvellous, whether via email, in the shop, the mechanics that assisted in setting up the bikes and ensuring we were all happy with our rented bikes, and very friendly. If the other guides were as accommodating as Bart was for our trips it completes the whole Free Motion package.
It should be said, Free Motion have bike hire centres all over the Canary Islands and nine in Gran Canaria alone.
A great trip for both of us with thanks to all involved.
Would I recommend this sort of package? Without a doubt. Try it out.
0 Comments